Samuel Ross and Hublot Rework the Big Bang

When Samuel Ross designs something, it rarely sits neatly in one category. His work moves between fashion, sculpture, architecture and industrial design. Watches, as it turns out, are a natural extension of that language.

His latest collaboration with Hublot — the Big Bang Unico SR_A — marks a new stage in a partnership that has quietly developed since 2020. Previous SR_A editions focused on sculptural tourbillon watches produced in extremely limited numbers. This time, Ross applies his industrial codes to Hublot’s signature chronograph platform.

For the first time, the SR_A design language is paired with the brand’s Unico manufacture movement — Hublot’s in-house chronograph calibre known for its open architecture and mechanical visibility.

“The architectural language,” Ross tells The Rakish Gent when asked what makes the watch instantly recognisable. “The use of material, contrast — ceramic and rubber — and of course the open-work throughout.”

The watch itself is built around a 42mm case in satin-finished and polished black ceramic. It retains the modular geometry of the Big Bang line while introducing a more stripped-back execution that feels consistent with Ross’s design ethos.

“It’s about restraint and discipline,” he says. “Black ceramic feels strong, minimal and wearable.”

Ceramic also brings a practical advantage. The material is highly resistant to scratches and lighter than steel, making it ideal for a watch intended to move beyond occasional wear.

Inside the case sits the HUB1280 Unico movement, a self-winding flyback chronograph with a 72-hour power reserve and silicon escapement. The movement is displayed through a matte black skeleton dial, exposing key components including the column wheel at six o’clock and the open chronograph mechanism. The result is a dial that feels architectural rather than decorative — a structure as much as a surface.

Ross’s signature motif also plays a central role.

The honeycomb pattern — previously used across his sculptures and earlier SR_A watch collaborations — appears here on a newly developed structured rubber strap. The pattern is not just visual branding but part of the design’s engineering logic.

“The honeycomb pattern we developed has become a signature across our tourbillon and chronograph pieces,” Ross explains. “Moving it onto the strap ensures that signature isn’t lost.”

Ross has previously described the honeycomb concept as a way of subtracting information from the object — removing mass while preserving strength.

“With the honeycomb, it was about taking information away from the watch to increase the lightness,” he adds.

The approach reflects the pace at which Ross tends to work. Asked which of the watch’s guiding ideas — stealth, strength or speed — best represents him at the moment, the answer is immediate.

“Speed,” he says. “I feel like the watch and myself are operating at speed. A lot of the inspiration comes from my design process — whether that’s developing sneakers, watches or architecture. This watch pulls together all of those aspects.”

While the watch remains limited, this release represents a deliberate shift in accessibility. Earlier SR_A tourbillon pieces were produced in editions of around 50.

“The earlier editions were around 50 pieces and centred on tourbillons — real heirloom objects that retail around £150,000 and come out for special moments like red carpets,” Ross explains. “With our first chronograph, I wanted to create something deeply functional — a real tool watch — which is why we opened the edition to 200 pieces rather than 50.”

That shift moves the collaboration closer to everyday wear rather than purely collector territory.

Ross describes the experience simply.

“The first thing is the lightness,” he says. “Then you notice how robust the watch feels — in the best possible way.”

Which raises the obvious question: what exactly is the Big Bang Unico SR_A meant to be?

Ross doesn’t hesitate.

“It’s all three,” he says. “It’s design, it’s status, and it’s a functional tool.”

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