Ferragamo SS27: Maximilian Davis Reworks 1940s Codes for Menswear

For Spring-Summer 2027, Maximilian Davis turns to the 1940s, examining the era’s uniforms, workwear and tailoring through the established language of Ferragamo.

While the collection considers a period defined by women entering the workforce, its menswear translates that discipline into a cleaner, more restrained wardrobe. The emphasis is on structure, proportion and the relationship between clothing and posture.

High-waisted tailoring is cut close to the body, while utility references appear through military pockets, layered vests and outerwear. The collection’s approach to leather is similarly direct, with supple nappa and sun-faded finishes sitting alongside more polished treatments.

Davis’s interest in Surrealism also surfaces through material contrasts and transparencies, while draped elements provide a softer counterpoint to the sharper 1940s silhouettes. The result is a wardrobe that moves between precise tailoring and more relaxed leather pieces without losing its underlying structure.

For men, footwear is particularly focused. The traditional double monkstrap is presented alongside a supple nappa leather slipper and a polished version featuring an embroidered toe. It is a relatively narrow selection, but one that fits the collection’s broader interest in refining familiar codes rather than replacing them.

Accessories extend that approach. The Cara bag, with its accordion construction, appears in seasonal leather and suede variations for both men and women, while Ferragamo’s Hug is reworked into an East-West silhouette.

The collection’s historical reference is clear, but Davis is less interested in reproducing the 1940s than extracting its functional details — tailoring, utility, leather and proportion — and putting them to work in a contemporary Ferragamo wardrobe.