Dining Out: Yannick Alléno’s new Sun-Drenched Summer Pop-Up: Battuta

10 min read

Photography - Nicholas Andrews

Few names command the same reverence as Yannick Alléno. The French chef’s empire spans the globe and 17 Michelin stars, yet he continues to surprise and innovate—most recently with Pavyllon London, his refined flagship at the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane. And now, just steps away on the hotel’s al fresco terrace, Alléno is unveiling something entirely different: Battuta, a globe-trotting summer pop-up that swaps formal finesse for spice-laced boldness and laid-back elegance.

Together, they offer a compelling snapshot of a chef at the peak of his powers—anchored in technique, yet always restless to explore.

Opened in 2023 and already awarded a Michelin star, Pavyllon London is the kind of restaurant that doesn’t feel the need to shout. Understated, assured, and quietly luxurious, the space—designed with warm wood, curved lines, and discreet counter seating—mirrors Alléno’s signature approach to modern French cuisine: precise, inventive, but never overwrought.

In a move that’s as stylish as it is practical, the restaurant has recently launched a new Prix Fixe Lunch Menu for under £50. It’s a rare and welcome opportunity to experience Alléno’s meticulous cooking without committing to the full tasting flight or breaking the bank.

Expect a rotating seasonal menu that might begin with a chilled courgette velouté or asparagus with hollandaise, followed by delicately poached cod in citrus beurre blanc or roast chicken with confit potatoes and jus. A classic Paris-Brest or a golden tarte fine might close the show.

It’s the kind of lunch that makes a Mayfair afternoon feel just a little more French—sharp tailoring optional, though highly encouraged.

From the refined to the radiant, Alléno's Battuta—open 1st July through 30th September—sits adjacent to Pavyllon but feels like a different world entirely. Named for the 14th-century explorer Ibn Battuta, the menu reads like his travel diary: North African spices, Middle Eastern herbs, Chinese broths, and Mediterranean sun all share the same table.

Where Pavyllon is intimate and quietly theatrical, Battuta is vibrant and communal. It’s a generous, open-air experience designed for lazy lunches and spirited dinners that extend into the evening. Think grilled meats, fragrant couscous, and shareable plates with flair—served tableside for a dash of theatre.

Alléno may be the architect, but this is food with a sense of place and play. The Sticky Mango Samosa is the perfect amuse-bouche: crisp, sweet, and kissed with black sesame. The Etlimek Flatbread topped with spiced lamb and beef is Alléno’s take on Lahmacun, elevated with cooling herb yoghurt and vivid acidity.

Chupe de Jaiba (a rich Chilean crab stew) this is not—but the Couscous with Clams and Green Sauce comes close in soul. It’s a bowl you’ll want to linger over, perfumed with spice and green herbs that whisper of Marrakesh and Marseille at once.

The Noodle Soup with Confit Pork Belly and Chinese Greens takes a more Eastward turn, fragrant and complex, but never fussy. It’s a study in contrast to the smoky simplicity of charred meats from the grill.

For dessert: a Crispy Kadaifi—a shredded filo pastry wrapped around cool cardamom ice cream—is a textural delight that closes the experience on a high note.

The wine list offers ample Mediterranean whites, spicy rosés, and skin-contact naturals, but the smart money is on the house cocktails. Bright, herbal, and far from generic, they pair effortlessly with the boldness of the menu.

The heated terrace itself is a masterstroke in tone—drawing from the natural textures of Ibn Battuta’s journey. Earthy tones, rattan furniture, and handmade ceramics create a space that feels both curated and comfortable, elegant but without the stiffness that sometimes accompanies fine dining.

It’s the kind of space that easily transitions from a sun-drenched lunch to candlelit dinner—relaxed, romantic, and thoroughly transportive. You could be in a riad in Marrakech, a rooftop in Beirut, or a garden in Andalusia.

What makes this duo so compelling is how seamlessly they complement each other. Pavyllon London is Alléno at his most refined: a showcase of haute technique, French rigor, and culinary detail. Battuta, by contrast, feels like Alléno on holiday—looser, bolder, and more playful, but underpinned by the same meticulous attention to flavour and balance.

Whether you’re after a precision-engineered three-course lunch or a globe-hopping dinner with friends, this corner of Mayfair now offers both. And for those keen to understand where fine dining is headed next, Alléno’s split-screen offering might be the clearest answer yet: less rigidity, more joy; less formality, more flavour.

For our readers, both Pavyllon and Battuta should be on your summer dining map. The former is ideal for a long client lunch or a mid-week indulgence; the latter for a Friday night that turns into a long, leisurely evening over cocktails and shared plates.

Our pick? Start with the £50 lunch at Pavyllon—perhaps seated at the counter for a view of the pass—and return on a balmy evening for Battuta’s clams and kadaifi under the stars.

Alléno might be the most Michelin-starred chef on the planet, but with this dual offering, he reminds us that even the best journeys begin with curiosity—and maybe a sticky samosa.

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