Ramen After Hours: Robin Kosuge Takes Over Holland Park

On 25th and 27th February, Supermarket of Dreams trades groceries for broth. At 6pm sharp, the pink neon hum dims, stools line up, and Robin’s Ramen begins service inside the 36-seat space on Holland Park Avenue.

Backed by Chris D’Sylva and Max Coen of Michelin-starred Dorian, the residency is led by Head Chef Robin Kosuge, formerly junior sous at Dorian. The producers are the same; the format is tighter. This is ramen built with a fine-dining supply chain and a cook’s respect for clarity.

The £10 chicken shio sets the tone: clean broth, chashu pork belly, ajitama. Duck ramen (£18) layers breast, wonton, confit leeks and yuzu. Beef ramen (£15) leans into braised tongue and chilli oil, while a beef mazesoba (£18) goes brothless with pickled daikon and an onsen egg. A weekly special spotlights ingredients from the shop, opening with pork neck chashu and pork paitan (£15).

Sides read like a greatest-hits list with sharper edges: oysters with cranberry ponzu, pork and venison gyoza, tuna tartare with fries, octopus karaage. Dessert? Green Szechuan pepper ice cream with puffed buckwheat and olive oil.

Kosuge’s Japanese and Polish heritage runs quietly through the menu — rye-blend noodles from Manchester’s Komugi, rosół notes in the broth, Yorkshire tea eggs nodding to family history. Wines come via Dorian, alongside rotating sake and beers, including Orion lager from Okinawa.

Seats are limited: 6pm, 7pm and 8pm. This is Holland Park’s most interesting after-hours move — and one that rewards men who know their tonkotsu.