DINING OUT: ALTA

In a part of Soho that rarely sits still, Kingly Court has long been a magnet for new openings. But ALTA, the latest restaurant to take over the courtyard’s largest space, arrives with a different kind of confidence. Rather than chasing trends, it looks to Northern Spain — specifically the Alta Navarra peninsula between Pamplona and Donostia — for inspiration, building a menu around open fire cooking, relaxed sharing plates and the sort of produce-led simplicity that defines Basque dining.

At the centre of it all is chef Rob Roy Cameron, whose CV reads like a tour of Spain’s most influential kitchens. A former member of the team at El Bulli and later Albert Adrià’s right-hand man during the opening of Barcelona’s boundary-pushing 41 Degrees, Cameron spent more than a decade cooking across Spain before returning to London. That experience is clear from the moment you sit down at ALTA: the menu is rooted in Spanish culinary traditions, but it leans confidently on the British larder.

The space itself sets the tone. Spread across two floors with room for more than 100 diners, ALTA blends exposed brick, raw concrete and warm wood into something that feels both contemporary and comfortably lived-in. The ground floor revolves around a borderless kitchen, where a large open-fire grill anchors the room and chefs move with quiet precision. A chilled counter displays the day’s seafood, while banquettes and standalone tables encourage the sort of informal dining that feels natural in Spain but often harder to achieve in London.

Dinner here begins, as it should, with a drink. The cocktail list, curated by Dino Koletsas — formerly head of bars and beverages at Harrods — leans savoury, echoing the restaurant’s Basque influences. The Basque 75, a confident twist on the classic French 75, is an excellent place to start: bright, elegant and sharp enough to wake up the palate. The Not Them Apples follows a different route entirely, balancing orchard fruit with a subtle savoury backbone, while the Dead Stone Daisy offers something a little more complex. For those leaning towards lower-ABV options, the non-alcoholic drinks are surprisingly thoughtful, sitting comfortably alongside the main cocktail list rather than feeling like an afterthought.

Food begins with a run of smaller plates designed for sharing. The house cecina — Spain’s answer to air-dried beef — is delicately sliced and deeply savoury, the kind of dish that disappears quickly around the table. Razor clams arrive next, served with a white saffron escabeche that brings brightness and gentle acidity. Escabeche, the Spanish technique of marinating fish, meat or vegetables in vinegar and oil, appears frequently across the menu here, reinterpreted using British vinegars and oils.

The squid is another highlight: tender, lightly charred and confidently seasoned, it’s a reminder that simplicity often wins when the ingredients are this good. A sardine empanada, paired with piparra emulsion, brings richness and a quiet hit of heat, while the txistorra — a small, punchy Basque sausage — delivers exactly the kind of smoky depth that begs for another round of drinks.

Much of ALTA’s produce is sourced from within the UK, and Cameron is careful to highlight that throughout the menu. Seafood comes predominantly from the South West coast, while vegetables are sourced from farms across southern England, including Good Earth Growers who are planting varieties of Spanish peppers specifically for the restaurant. Even the pork tells a story: a heritage breed raised by Aurox Farm in Dorset.

That commitment becomes most obvious when the grill section comes into play. The open fire, visible from much of the dining room, lends dishes a subtle smokiness that never feels heavy-handed. The cod is beautifully judged, flaky and rich, while grilled courgettes deliver that ideal balance of char and sweetness.

Ordering something substantial from the grill is non-negotiable. Aged beef sirloin, whole seabream or hen of the woods mushrooms are all strong choices, but whatever lands on the table should be accompanied by the potatoes — crisp, golden and impossible to stop eating — and the leeks, which arrive soft, smoky and quietly luxurious.

Drinks alongside these dishes lean naturally towards the wine list, which focuses heavily on European producers with an emphasis on low-intervention winemaking. Bottles from small-scale vineyards dominate the list, while a rotating wall of wines on tap offers everything from experimental pours to fine wines by the glass.

There is, however, another option worth exploring: cider. Inspired by the Basque country’s deep cider culture, ALTA serves a selection from British producers including Little Pomona in Herefordshire, Naughton Cider in Scotland and Wilding Cider from Somerset. Dry, structured and quietly complex, they pair surprisingly well with the grilled seafood and richer meat dishes.

Dessert here feels less like an afterthought and more like a final flourish. Chocolate with olive oil and salt delivers a classic Spanish flavour combination, while the Basque-style La Viña cheesecake is everything it should be: deeply caramelised on top, creamy at the centre and entirely addictive.

ALTA’s timing is also well judged. The restaurant will mark World Vermouth Day with a long weekend of aperitivo from 20–22 March, offering a special cocktail menu created in collaboration with Bristol-based The Aperitivo Co. The limited-edition ‘Vermouth Hour’ menu — featuring drinks such as a Mezcal & Jasmine Negroni and Aperitivo Co Dry & Olive Lemonade — celebrates the resurgence of British vermouth, which has quietly grown in popularity as low-ABV cocktails continue to gain ground.

Events aside, what makes ALTA work is its sense of ease. Despite Cameron’s impressive background and the serious thought behind the sourcing, the restaurant never feels overly formal. Instead, it channels the relaxed rhythm of Northern Spanish dining — good produce, generous plates, and the sort of atmosphere that encourages you to stay longer than planned.

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