Villa La Massa: The Art of Doing Nothing in Florence

Words - Tajinder Hayer

There are hotels that make an excellent base for exploring a destination, and then there are those that make you question why you ever wanted to leave. Set on the banks of the Arno, amid Tuscan hills and centuries-old gardens, Villa La Massa is a Renaissance retreat that brings together the best of Italian hospitality, exceptional food and the kind of unhurried luxury that is becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Just 20 minutes from the heart of Florence, it offers a rather persuasive alternative to staying in the city itself.

There is something rather wonderful about arriving in Florence when the weather is on your side. The city looks as though it has been arranged for your benefit: warm light catching the stone façades, terracotta rooftops stretching towards the hills, and piazzas that encourage you to abandon whatever plans you might have made in favour of another coffee, another glass of wine, or an exceptionally long lunch.

Florence is a city that rewards taking your time. It has an old-world Italian character that feels increasingly rare, where history isn't confined to museums and grand landmarks but remains part of the everyday landscape. Yet, for all its beauty, the centre can be busy, and there comes a point when escaping the crowds becomes rather appealing.

This is where Villa La Massa comes into its own.

Situated in Candeli, to the east of Florence, the five-star property sits approximately five miles from the historic centre, on the banks of the River Arno. The drive takes around 20 minutes, depending on traffic, but the change of pace feels considerably more dramatic. The city gives way to rolling hills, impressive private villas and stretches of greenery, until the road leads to an estate that feels less like a hotel and more like an invitation into another world.

The first impression is one of tranquillity. There is space to breathe, mature greenery all around, and a sense that the property has been allowed to evolve naturally rather than engineered to impress at every turn. Villa La Massa has the sort of setting that makes you instinctively slow down. Even before checking in, the prospect of doing very little begins to sound rather attractive.

And that, as it turns out, is one of its greatest luxuries.

Villa La Massa's story stretches back to the 13th century, long before the idea of a luxury hotel existed in anything resembling its modern form. Its early history is connected to the Giraldi family, part of Florence's aristocratic establishment, before the property developed into a summer residence in 1525 under Santi Landini, a Florentine publisher and member of the city's elite. Subsequent owners, including Cardinal Giovanni Rinuccini and his nephew Alessandro, left their mark on the estate, expanding and reshaping the villa as tastes and fortunes changed.

The result is a property with genuine historical substance. This is not a contemporary resort dressed up with a few antique furnishings; the architecture, historic details and relationship with the surrounding landscape are integral to its identity. Later owners introduced further changes, while the American Sears family helped transform the residence into a hospitality destination in the 1950s. Since 1998, the estate has belonged to the Villa d'Este group, whose restoration work has helped preserve its character while adapting it for modern guests.

The guest list is almost as compelling as the history. Gregory Peck, Winston Churchill, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton are among the celebrated names associated with the property. Madonna, George Michael and Sting have also reportedly stayed here. But perhaps its most romantic claim to fame belongs to David Bowie and Iman, who chose Villa La Massa as the setting for their wedding in 1992, taking over the entire estate for the occasion.

It is easy to understand the appeal. There is an intimacy here that a large, modern city hotel simply cannot replicate. The buildings have their own personalities, the grounds provide natural privacy, and the river lends the estate an almost cinematic quality. You can appreciate the property's illustrious past without feeling as though you are staying inside a museum.

Instead, the history provides a backdrop to the experience, which is precisely how it should be.

The accommodation continues the balance between heritage and comfort. Villa La Massa's rooms and suites are spread across a collection of separate buildings, including the Noble Villa, Il Villino, Il Mulino, Casa Colonica and La Limonaia. Rather than presenting a single, uniform hotel interior, each building has its own atmosphere, with traditional Florentine detailing sitting alongside more contemporary interpretations of Tuscan style

My suite was one of the highlights of the stay. Generously proportioned and arranged over two floors, it offered the kind of space that makes a hotel room feel like a temporary home rather than somewhere to leave your luggage between outings. There was room to spread out, settle in and enjoy the surroundings without feeling confined to the bedroom..

The furnishings were soft and inviting, the fabrics tactile, and the overall atmosphere reassuringly comfortable. Nothing felt needlessly showy. Instead, the emphasis was on the details that make a genuine difference when you are staying somewhere for more than a night: comfortable seating, considered furnishings and a bed you actively look forward to returning to.

The four-poster bed deserves particular mention. After a day spent wandering Florence, enjoying long meals and exploring the estate, sinking into it was a pleasure in itself. The bedding was wonderfully soft, and I slept exceptionally well. It sounds like a small thing, but a great night's sleep can be the difference between a hotel that looks beautiful in photographs and one that genuinely leaves you feeling better than when you arrived.

The suite's two-floor layout also lent it a sense of separation and privacy. There was no need to rush through the morning or treat the room as a functional pit stop. It was somewhere to spend time.

And isn't that the point?

If there is one thing Italy understands better than almost anywhere else, it is that eating well is not simply a matter of what is on the plate. It is the company, the setting, the wine, the conversation and, crucially, the amount of time you are prepared to give it.

Villa La Massa understands this rather well.

The property's dining offering includes Il Verrocchio, the principal restaurant, and L'Oliveto Bistrot, a more relaxed option close to the swimming pool. Both sit comfortably within the estate's wider approach to hospitality, with Italian traditions and the quality of local ingredients taking precedence over unnecessary theatrics.

Il Verrocchio is led by executive chef Stefano Ballarino, whose cooking draws on Tuscan and Italian traditions while introducing a contemporary sensibility. The emphasis is on ingredients, seasonality and well-judged technique rather than culinary showmanship for its own sake. L'Oliveto, meanwhile, is the sort of place that makes an afternoon by the pool even more appealing, with pizza, pasta, salads and Mediterranean dishes served in an informal setting surrounded by the gardens.

And sometimes, a really good pizza is exactly what you want.

One of the joys of staying here was being able to enjoy the full spectrum of Italian dining, from rustic, traditional pizza to a long, leisurely lunch accompanied by wine. There was no pressure to hurry through a meal to get on with the next thing. The food became the occasion, as it should. Then there was affogato: that wonderfully simple Italian combination of ice cream and espresso which, when done properly, needs very little else. It is hardly an elaborate culinary innovation, but that is precisely the point. Italy has an enviable ability to turn simple pleasures into memorable experiences, and Villa La Massa provides the perfect setting in which to appreciate them.

The setting becomes particularly special as evening approaches. One night, dinner coincided with the setting sun, the changing light lending the gardens a warmth that no interior designer could hope to recreate. With the landscape shifting into softer shades, the atmosphere became almost impossibly romantic.

It was one of those evenings when you find yourself wishing dinner would last just a little longer.

For those looking to make an occasion of it, the hotel also offers private dinners in its gardens, with candlelight, a dedicated butler and a four-course menu celebrating Tuscan flavours. There is also a historic bar, Bar Mediceo, whose 19th-century frescoes provide the backdrop for an aperitivo or a cocktail, while wine lovers can explore the region's celebrated vintages through the hotel's tasting experiences.

One of the most enjoyable experiences of the stay was a pizza-making class with the head chef. It is easy to dismiss hotel activities as a pleasant way of filling an hour, but this was a genuinely immersive experience that brought another dimension to the visit.

There is something appealing about stepping away from being served and getting involved in the process yourself. Pizza is familiar enough to make the experience accessible, yet there is real craft behind producing a good one. Working alongside the chef offered an opportunity to engage with Italian food culture in a way that simply ordering from a menu cannot.

It also felt entirely in keeping with Villa La Massa. The property's appeal is not restricted to its architecture, bedrooms or views; it is also about the opportunity to experience the place and its surroundings. Cooking lessons, cocktail classes and wine tastings allow guests to engage with the traditions that make Tuscany such a compelling destination.

For anyone who loves Italian food, the class is well worth considering. You leave with a greater appreciation of something you might otherwise take for granted, and, more importantly, you have fun doing it.

That balance between sophistication and genuine enjoyment is one of Villa La Massa's strengths. Luxury need not mean being a passive observer of your surroundings. Sometimes it is about having the time, space and encouragement to try something new.

There are plenty of reasons to visit Florence, but spending every waking hour sightseeing is not necessarily one of them. The beauty of staying at Villa La Massa is that you can devote a morning to the city and the afternoon to doing absolutely nothing by the pool.

The grounds themselves are a significant part of the appeal. The estate extends across approximately 10 hectares, with established gardens and mature trees framing the historic buildings. There is a sense of being immersed in the Tuscan countryside without having to travel deep into it.

And with the weather behaving itself during my stay, there was little incentive to be anywhere else.

A hotel with a swimming pool and beautiful gardens already has a strong case for a relaxing stay, but Villa La Massa goes further with the Arno Spa.

Located within the historic villa, the spa brings together a sauna, Turkish bath, Roman bath with hydromassage, sensory showers, treatment rooms and a relaxation area. Its position within the property adds to the atmosphere: this is not a sprawling, anonymous wellness complex but a more intimate retreat designed to encourage guests to slow down.

My treatment was one of the most restorative parts of the trip. The massage was deeply relaxing, providing the perfect opportunity to let go of the accumulated tension that tends to follow you around, even when you are supposed to be on holiday. It was the sort of experience that makes you realise just how long it has been since you properly stopped.

The spa uses products from Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, the historic Florentine apothecary whose roots stretch back to the city's religious and botanical traditions. The association feels particularly fitting in a hotel where history is woven into so many aspects of the experience.

What I appreciated most was the sense of calm. There was no need to make a day of it or spend hours moving between facilities. A treatment, a little time to unwind and the knowledge that a comfortable suite awaited upstairs were more than enough. Villa La Massa also offers outdoor yoga alongside other sporting and wellness activities, with a gym, cycling options and opportunities to explore the surrounding landscape.

But the point is not necessarily to fill your stay with activities. It is to have the choice. You can spend the morning moving, the afternoon reading by the pool and the evening over dinner, without feeling that you have missed out on anything.

That freedom is perhaps the most appealing aspect of the experience. Some luxury hotels are designed to impress you with how much they offer. Villa La Massa makes a compelling case for how good a stay can feel when you are under no obligation to do very much at all.

Of course, the hotel's position outside Florence would count for little if reaching the city were difficult. Fortunately, the centre is close enough to make exploring straightforward, with the hotel also offering a complimentary shuttle service to and from the Ponte Vecchio according to its published property information.

Florence is one of those cities that can make even an unplanned wander feel worthwhile. Its architectural heritage is extraordinary, but it is the atmosphere between the major sights that makes it so enjoyable. There are narrow streets to explore, cafés to stop at, shops to browse and restaurants that tempt you to extend lunch well into the afternoon.

The city retains a strong sense of its own identity. The Renaissance is not simply a chapter in a history book here; it remains visible in the buildings, the public spaces and the everyday rhythm of the place. Florence feels traditional without being frozen in time, and its relationship with art, craftsmanship and food is part of what makes it so distinctive.

I would certainly recommend setting aside time to explore it properly. But I would also resist the temptation to turn the visit into a checklist. A little wandering, a good meal and a coffee enjoyed without checking the time can be every bit as rewarding as ticking off another landmark.

The beauty of Villa La Massa is that you do not have to choose between the city and the countryside. You can enjoy both, moving between the energy of Florence and the tranquillity of the estate as the mood takes you.

That makes it particularly appealing for couples, for anyone celebrating a special occasion, or for travellers who want a cultural break without sacrificing the pleasures of a proper luxury hotel.

What stays with me most about Villa La Massa is the feeling of the place. The setting is beautiful, the history is genuinely compelling, the accommodation is generous and comfortable, and the food makes it easy to settle into the pleasures of Italian life. The service throughout my stay was impeccable, delivered with a level of attentiveness that made everything feel effortless.

It is the combination that matters. A remarkable building alone does not guarantee a memorable hotel, nor does an impressive spa or a beautiful pool. Villa La Massa brings these elements together in a way that feels coherent, with the warmth of its hospitality giving the experience its character.

Villa La Massa is not trying to compete with Florence. It offers something different: a way to experience the city while retaining a sense of privacy, space and escape. For anyone who wants to immerse themselves in Tuscan culture but also appreciates the importance of switching off, it makes an exceptionally persuasive choice.

And if you happen to find yourself lingering over lunch, ordering another affogato or deciding that a few more hours by the pool would be preferable to another trip into town, you will have understood the appeal.

Sometimes the best way to experience Italy is to give yourself permission to stay still.

The details

Villa La Massa

Location: Via della Massa 24, Candeli, Florence, Italy.

Getting there: Approximately 20 minutes by car from central Florence, traffic permitting. Florence Airport is around 15 km away.

Rooms: Rooms and suites are available across several historic buildings, with private villas and residences also offered.

Prices: From €550 per night for a Double Deluxe Room, including breakfast (approximately £473)

Tajinder Hayer