Stefan Cooke AW20 — The Rakish Gent

The End, the autumn collection from one to watch Stefan Cooke was a poetic and moving presentation of the feeling of emptiness at the end of a performance. An evolution of the already familiar silhouette, the collection also offered plenty of newness.

First lauded for signature cut-out knits, which made a sweater look unlike anything you’d seen before, the refiguring of menswear and evolving of silhouettes are integral to the brands DNA. Deceptively simple, many of the pieces needed a closer look for the workmanship to be appreciated. A classic tweed coat was slashed in just the right way and tailored trousers featured strips of leather.

A collaboration with denim super brand Lee led to experiments in swirling patterns across trousers transposed from lace and jeans studded with metal rivets. Collaborations in fashion are nothing new but the Will Bond painted clouds on leather vests were instantly appealing and were the sort of pieces that an editor would remember months later. Similarly, superb boat neck coats in navy looked new and unique and had an immediate “I need it now” quality.

Elegance, harking back to old world Balenciaga and Dior, made modern with denim and a focus on technique and a nuanced approach to the key components of a man’s wardrobe made for a standout LFWM show for London and for Stefan Cooke.

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