SERIES: Bianca Saunders — The Rakish Gent

Photography & art direction - Nicholas Andrews

Words & styling - Taj Hayer

Model - Alexander at Supa Model Management

An evolving exploration of identity

Of the countless new designers that have risen to prominence over the last few years, Bianca Saunders stands apart from her peers. Since graduating from The Royal College of Art in 2017 she has gained plaudits for her intelligent designs and her self-titled label, which is in exploration in identity.

Bianca’s background and formative years growing up in London with West-Indian heritage are a constant source of inspiration for the designer. Whilst the collections have evolved, each of them utilises familiar fabrics, typically found in any man’s wardrobe. Nylon, leather, cotton and denim are all staples, which are masterfully manipulated by creases and cuts to introduce an aspect of femininity to the menswear as well as an undeniably subtle sex appeal.

The manipulation of garments is a Bianca Saunders trademark - the cinched waist and over, oversized denim, the cut-off top and the longer than average mesh panel underwear present menswear classics in a way never quite seen before. Typically, tops are tight around the chest and offer little movement. In some way they resemble corsets worn by women - not only a fashion garment but an armour against the world and a uniform of the past.

Debuting at Pitti Uomo with her AW18 Personal Politics collection, the label really grew to prominence with Gestures, the SS19 offering which was showcased at London Fashion Week Mens. Gestures led to AW19’s Unravelling collection which followed on from the preceding season, exploring black male identity, focusing on self-expression in the intimate setting of one’s bedroom.

The most recent collection, Character continues to explore themes of identity, a feminine wave of menswear and brings together research and observations over the last three years. The message across seasons stays the same - that there is a frailty and femininity to menswear and that intelligence and sensitivity are hugely attractive qualities.

Explore Bianca Saunders