Milan Fashion Week AW26 Report

Words - Ben James Adams

MMFW AW26 reflected a broader cultural slowdown, with menswear moving away from provocation toward intentional design. Utility softened, tailoring relaxed, and luxury became quieter —almost defensive. While some collections leaned on archival references, others hinted at a new pragmatism shaped by shifting consumer habits and a renewed emphasis on wearability. This season wasn’t about redefining menswear, but redefining how it fits into everyday life.

Menswear is entering a phase of controlled evolution rather than disruption. Refinement triumphed over rebellion, as designers focused on precision, proportion, and longevity. Clothes spoke softly, but with intent—confidence emerged from clarity rather than excess.

Brunello Cucinelli brought man closer to nature, centering on the contemporary explorer. Relaxed tones, subtly shortened shoulders, and softened blazer lines defined the collection, while ties crafted from the same fabric as the suits reinforced cohesion. Velvet mimicked rich denim, and shearling and suede emerged as signature textures, highlighting tactile luxury.

Dolce & Gabbana unveiled The Portrait of Man, exploring masculine archetypes from the creative visionary to the Mediterranean sensualist. Heavy knits, sharply tailored suiting, refined jewellery, and slick leather pieces conveyed individuality and personal style, reclaiming elegance as a deeply personal form of expression.

Canali created a private-club atmosphere for the man of many moods. AW26 was a masterclass in sartorial mixology: cashmere and vicuña jackets, the return of the trench coat, and utility-inspired four-pocket jackets layered with leather for depth. Every piece showcased impeccable proportions, meticulous finishes, and perfect fit—like a perfectly mixed cocktail.

Ferragamo unveiled “Legends, Reimagined”, honouring Salvatore Ferragamo’s pioneering spirit as the “Shoemaker of Dreams.” The AW26 chapter spotlighted the Tramezza shoe, crafted through over 160 meticulous steps. Skiing legend Alberto Tomba, an icon of instinct, precision, and elegance, embodied this spirit. Guests explored the immersive Tramezza Atelier, where bespoke leathers and personalised details reinforced Ferragamo’s commitment to individuality. Cinematic visuals captured Tomba’s movements, linking discipline with artistry. “Legends, Reimagined” celebrated heritage, perfection, and the pride of owning a true icon.