First Look: Glenn Martens Brings His Avant-Garde Vision to H&M

Glenn Martens is having a moment — and now, so is your wardrobe. The Belgian designer, known for his rule-breaking work at Y/Project and Diesel, is bringing his avant-garde sensibility to the high street with the new Glenn Martens x H&M collection, launching on 30 October.

The collection, which spans menswear, womenswear and unisex pieces, reimagines everyday clothing with a playful, sculptural edge. Martens has delved into H&M’s archives, pulling out customer favourites — T-shirts, checked shirts, bomber jackets and denim — and reworking them with an experimental touch. Trompe-l’œil prints, adjustable draping, and hidden wiring allow the wearer to reshape garments into new silhouettes. It’s as if the clothes are alive, evolving with you throughout the day.

“I see this collection as a big family of garments, all of which have multiple purposes and personalities: like people, they grow and change each day,” Martens explains. “The idea of archetypes and wardrobe staples was the starting point for this very special and joyful project with H&M.”

The campaign, starring British icons Joanna Lumley and Richard E. Grant, embraces the same sense of irreverent energy. It’s Martens at his most playful — twisting the idea of a traditional family portrait into something theatrical and tongue-in-cheek.

At a private preview, The Rakish Gent’s Fashion Director Ignacio de Tiedra shared his first impressions. “The new Glenn Martens x H&M collection has finally arrived and it’s here to make a statement,” he said. “Much like Glenn himself, the collection is all about identity, craftsmanship and freedom. It feels like Glenn’s playground — a space where his signature style meets H&M’s accessible ethos. Every piece reflects a sense of experimentation, a designer clearly having fun with fabrics, textures, prints and proportions.”

De Tiedra highlights the collection’s interactive nature: “You can see the meticulous care Martens has poured into the garments to reflect individuality for each customer — from trousers and dresses whose draping can be adjusted, to sculptural pieces wired to be moulded and shaped at will. It’s a clear nod to his time at Y/Project.”

And then there’s the denim. “It’s impossible to talk about Glenn without mentioning it,” he adds. “Here it’s reimagined through his lens — exaggerated shapes, frayed cords, and a sense of balance between the industrial and the sensual. It’s an ode to Diesel, but completely his own.”

The standout achievement of the collaboration? Freedom. “There’s no sign of compromise,” says de Tiedra. “Instead, there’s a designer exploring, distorting, and injecting his avant-garde codes into the mainstream without watering them down.”

The result is a collection that celebrates individuality — wearable, intelligent, and distinctly Martens. Glenn Martens x H&M launches worldwide on 30 October at hm.com and select stores.