Ermenegildo Zegna AW20

Words - Taj Hayer

Under the artistic direction of Alessandro Sartori, Zegna are attempting to redefine tailoring. That begins with setting their vision for the season, which consists of a neat and layered silhouette, accentuating garments. 

Details like flaps and patch pockets add a utilitarian slant. Three button suits were slightly boxy (read more comfortable to wear) and one and a half breast jackets and tapered trousers are worn under puffy blousons. Layering was a key message for autumn, with zip-up overshirts with low collar lines replacing traditional shirting. The tailored waistcoat also made a comeback, to be worn with or without the suit. 

Volume was a key motif from the collection, with coats redefined with deep back pleats, parka fusions and shirts that double up as short-sleeved blousons. 

Fabrics were more experimental than ever before, with weaves and mixes of natural with synthetic fibres. Patterns were rendered in print and jacquard techniques and even plain fabrics were made entirely from the remnants of suit-making. The collaboration with Leica, the legendary German high-end manufacturer of cameras and sport optics products, translates into a desirable array of camera bags, holders and straps. 

Explore further at Ermenegildo Zegna.