The Rakish Gent

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Berthold SS19

Words by Elliot Whitelaw

Photography by Nicholas Andrews

Named after its Creative Director, Austrian born Raimund Berthold, the brand is well known for its  utilitarian sense of colours and silhouettes that are free from defined shapes. – nylon, neoprene and synthetic fabrics that are cut against natural wool and cotton.

The SS19 collection from Berthold, did exactly that - combining new facets of fashion with the old. Typical silhouettes such as trench coats are cut to the traditional style but are panelled with nylon on the chest when the rest of the coat is cotton. The collection is very detailed and it’s easy to understand and appreciate how much effort went into the capsule. The variety of models help to showcase the versatility of all the different outfits, and how different pieces could be utilised for certain events and situations.

After Erollson Hugh’s work with ACG and Acronym, ‘tech-wear’ certainly became more integrated with higher-end fashion, and the latest Berthold collection definitely epitomises how utility-focused fashion has become so appreciated recently.

The colours used are deceptively simple but bold and eye-catching. Black features heavily, accompanied by some of the garments being beige or a hot pink. The colour panel is somewhat unusual, but it works. The pink would be too intrusive if it was mixed with other colours but the balance between the colours is pulled off very well. All of the outfits are accompanied with the Dr Martens 2976 Chelsea Boot or what appears to be the Dr Martens Gryphon sandal. Dr Martens is famous for creating footwear that is versatile and can successfully feature in any outfit, so it’s a perfect match.

The collection really does feature everything any tech-wear admirer would want. Hoodies, jumpers and jackets of different cuts and styles make for a versatile collection. And even the accessories such as the backpacks and utility bags were obviously created with utility and versatility in mind. Alongside this there are several different cuts of trousers including straight leg, tapered and cargo pants. All combining to allow the audience to imagine the different combinations and looks they could create with the excellently presented and well-made capsule on display.

Overall, the collection is everything you would expect a utility/teach wear collection to be, but so much more. The small details such as the panelling and the utility-focused zips and straps make for an exciting and functional collection.

Explore further at Berthold.