SHOW REPORT | 21/09/2017 | TAJINDER HAYER
SPRING / SUMMER '18
When a brand turns the grand old age of 150, there is a real reason to celebrate. E. Tautz marked the anniversary with their SS18 collection which exuded the confidence that comes so naturally to a heritage brand that has been getting things so right for so many years.
This was a collection that was incredibly pure and simple. Free or any fuss, frills or print, the emphasis was on the rakish consumer – he has been buying E. Tautz for years and won’t be stopping any time soon. So what will be in his wardrobe next spring? To cut a long story short its all of the tailoring that the brand excels at; oversized trousers with perfectly placed pleats, tab collared shirts cut to fall away from the body and hang loosely, tucked into the slightly high-waisted trousers and 1940s style double breasted jackets that look just as good when worn with a pair of shorts as they do as a suit.
Recent seasons have seen an evolution of E. Tautz introducing “easy tailoring” as a new menswear concept. For spring this was taken further with the introduction of the superb loose pyjama style striped suits. Whilst the thought would invoke the idea of grandad chic, this was most definitely not the case. In fact, the collection was younger and fresher than the last few seasons. Patrick Grant is the master of a nonchalant, Savile-Row inspired yet modern approach to dressing and this collection had all of these elements. The 150th anniversary of the brand was treated as a greatest hits, as opposed to the chance to offer something new. Pinstripe suits, oversized tortoise shell spectacles designed in collaboration with Kirk Originals and summer shoes from Christian Louboutin are all trademarks of the brand, and of course, are part and parcel of the reason that the brand has achieved the success that it has. That success comes down to that superb blend of polished yet relaxed that is captured in each and every look of the collection.
Inspired by the soundtrack of new wave band Japan’s 1979 album Quiet Life, the press release stated “that’s all we ask for after the turmoil of the past 12 months”. The show presented modest and understated designs that are perfect for a long and lazy summer and for those that want that quiet life.
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All images by Nicholas Andrews