SHOW REPORT | 17/10/2017 | TAJINDER HAYER
SPRING / SUMMER '18
After numerous seasons showcasing via small presentations that introduced his signature loose but streamlined silhouette, Raimund Berthold took bold steps into the future with his spring/ summer 2018 collection.
The collection was billed as a study of masculinity and conflict. As a point of reference the designer considered images of child soldiers across Sierra Leone, Uganda, Nigeria and Liberia. The images all revealed an almost absurd brutality. The clothes were all too big, the child shoulders all looked like they were playing dress up with guns slung across their shoulders. The resounding sense was clothes that were so oversized that they dwarfed their tiny frames and exaggerated their sense of manliness and pride.
A significant step forward for the brand was the sense of majesty and theatre that the spring collection had. Celebrating a boy becoming a man, the clothes were bold and elegant. The use of red and golden yellow conveyed youth and optimism and looked forward and graphic in abstract prints on technical fabrics and rich fabrics. Knitwear has always been a strength for the brand and for next season, pattern was created through stitch with contrast inlay detail at the neck and cuff.
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All images by Nicholas Andrews