SHOW REPORT | 31/10/2016 | TAJINDER HAYER
SEVERAL S/S '17
That crossover period of the Forties/ Fifties, post-war and in economic turmoil is an oft-forgotten era and is certainly one that seems to have been left behind by designers that look to the past when creating new collections. This was not the case at Several.
Creative director and designer Grame Fidler sought inspiration from a rather strange source – the A1 Great North Road during the postwar years that combines the simple and utilitarian uniforms worn by service men, and the early influence of the Jazz modernist music on the British. The A1 North Road was the way that many working class men travelled to London to seek opportunity. This collection started there and took us on a journey – past motorway cafés and into the jazz bars of Soho.
When we go to see fashion shows and presentations during London Collections: Men we all too often look at the clothes and forget about all of the rest of the work that goes into making a vision come to life. At Several the set design was deserving of special mention – it was an incredibly authentic looking service station from the 1950s with models acting like real service men from the time. Attention to detail was superb with vintage magazines and papers sat alongside toast.
The retro vibes extended to the clothing on show. The blend between modern aspirational and vintage utilitarian was spot on – with items like the trench coat and sunglasses perfectly blending the mood of the nation at the time, and our modern consumer desires at the same time. The tailoring, colours and fabric all further heightened the authentic yet modern take on menswear. Lightweight poplin shirting was teamed with on trend wide-leg trousers to create a look that is timeless and versatile.
The American influence that was creeping into the UK at the time, also made a steady appearance within the clothing via graphic ginghams and striped seersuckers that were mixed with loose weave hop sack and military cotton. “Milkman” was a word that was being banded around by the fashion press during the presentation and if we have anything to do with it, the milkman can be a major trend for next spring.