SHOW REPORT | 14/09/2016 | TAJINDER HAYER
MACKINTOSH S/S '17
For a brand that is best known for their traditional macs, it can be difficult to create a new and exciting vision for the season that gets everyone talking. This was not a problem that the team at Mackintosh seemed to struggle with. Their spring offering was a master class in outerwear and we saw some of the best coats we have seen in a long, long time.
Taking place in a conceptual, mirrored platform in the Palm Court Hotel the focus was firmly on looking to the traditional past and bringing it into the future. Mackintosh know that the brand has been built on the back of a great mac so instead of shirking away from this, they sought to design modern, updated versions of a piece that we all want to wear today. This was a collection made for the man on the move – the mirrored platforms brought to mind a futuristic train station and the clothes amplified this vibe further. Performance fabrics were an essential component of each of the eleven looks, which were classic in their tone but injected with a sense of the modern. This was perhaps best brought to light on the beautiful camo pieces, which looked to be elegantly painted onto the fabric.
Of course the mac was always be essential for Mackintish. The classic version was light, beige and ready to be thrown over your suit and a new white candy stripe version appealed to a younger market than the brand has previously. The heritage brand also understands the importance of the Eastern market – Japanese denim was back in the form of jeans, and an oversized parka, which was the most fashion forward piece of the collection. The inclusion of these pieces created an altogether younger brand than we have seen before and this has to be a welcome move.
New for the season was collaboration with bag brand Porter. Mackintosh worked with Porter to introduce tote bags made from their rubberized cotton. Again, an emphasis on functional and performance made them perfect travel companions for the rakish gent on the move.