SHOW REPORT | 09/02/2017 | TAJINDER HAYER
BERTHOLD A/W '17
For autumn 2017, Raimund Berthold kept true to his signature aesthetic of a free flowing silhouette and utilitarian sense of colour.
The rather macabre show notes advised us that “on the walls of Raimund Berthold’s studio are photographs of scratches, scars and stitches embedded deep into the skin, 3D printed prosthetics, curved metal body braces and athletic tape coiled around arms and legs.” The ways in which the male form is restricted was a key theme of the collection, with wide leg proportions on trousers evoking desolate hospital corridors and an oversized, silhouette that created the sense of a languid, angular shadow. As we have come to expect, the ways in which volume was played with was dynamic.
Taking the theme of restriction further, body gloves were styled over the aforementioned wide leg trousers. We have always been fans of the outerwear at Berthold and it was once again, one of the show highlights. For autumn, sportif jackets were presented with elongated, exaggerated sleeves, and fins jutted out from the back of boxy blousons. Referring back to that mood board, the elbows on bombers were spliced open, superbly styled with skinny trousers that were split at the knee or corseted against the torso.
For spring, colour was the strongest selling suit for the Berthold collection. For autumn it was all about the texture. Fuzzy, dimpled and crisp – the varying textures were taken from torn, soft leather and papers that have been left to age over time. The felted wool looked to be incredibly soft and rich, as did the fluffy mohair.
Explore further at Berthold
All images by Nicholas Andrews